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English Summer Pudding

he crowning glory of an English summer is the summer pud itself. Apparently, it started life in British spas and nursing homes, where it was served to the patients as an alternative to heavy puddings made with pastry. According to Larousse Gastronomique, it was known as ‘hydropathic' pudding, not, perhaps, as seductive a name as summer pudding. It is best made a day ahead, allowing the juices to ooze into the bread casing, turning the lot into a juicy, vividly berry-red dome. It is also relatively easy to make, as long as you don't get too fussed about perfect trapezoids of bread and the delicate art of construction. It all seems to come together if you leave it to set overnight anyway. Even if it doesn't, a messy, fall-apart summer pud is better than no summer pud at all.

Serves 6

  • 1 kg mixed fresh berries (esp. raspberries and redcurrants)
  • 50 ml water
  • 175 g caster sugar
  • 8 or so stale slices good white bread, thinly sliced
  1. Combine three-quarters of the berries with the sugar and water in a small saucepan and gently heat until sugar has dissolved. Remove and add more sugar if too tart. Add almost all of the remaining berries and strain the fruit, keeping all the juices.

  2. Remove the crusts from the bread, and cut a piece to fit the base of a one-litre pudding basin or bowl. Cut the remaining slices into triangles or rectangles to cover the sides of the bowl. Now that you've assembled the shell, take each cut slice, dip it lightly into the reserved juices, and return it to its position in the bowl.

  3. Add the berries, and some of their juices, and top with a final layer of bread, cutting to fit. Press lightly until the juices rise to the top, covering the bread. Place a saucer on top, weight it with a can, and refrigerate overnight. Refrigerate the remaining juices as well.

  4. To unmould, ease a knife between pudding and bowl, place a serving plate on top and invert. Spoon the reserved juices on top and arrange the reserved berries on top. Serve with crème fraiche, pouring cream or yoghurt.

 


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